‘Faded Acanthus’, Keum-Boo silver-gilt brooch by Rachael Plassard

A part of the ‘Faded Acanthus’ collection, this superb brooch was crafted in 2023 by the British jewellery designer, Rachael Plassard.

The square-shaped brooch is crafted from one piece of hand-pierced silver. Its frame is filled with acanthus leaves, a popular motif within Plassard’s work which takes inspiration from highly decorative historical styles. The outer leaves are decorated with the ancient Korean technique of Keum Boo whereby thin sheets of gold are applied to silver. The inner leaves as well as parts of the outer ones have been oxidised. This material finish combination creates a stunning colour and texture contrast. Two pins attach the brooch to one’s clothing.

Historically, acanthus leaves were symbolic of immortality and resurrection, but Plassard’s take on this well-known motif transforms it into a modern, fashionable accessory. The Faded Acanthus collection not only celebrates the beauty and importance of the acanthus plant but also carries a metaphorical meaning personal to Plassard. The gradual colour fade and plant choice shines a light on her late father’s illness. As she explains ‘acanthus invades other plants and the surrounding areas, mirroring how Alzheimer’s affects the brain, becoming overgrown with plaques and tangles, causing memory loss and distortion’. The collection aims to remind one that memory is a gift, something that often gets taken for granted until it fails us or someone around us.

The inside of the brooch is stamped with the maker’s mark in addition to other hallmarks.

The brooch can be used to frame other adornments on one’s clothing, elevating their importance within the outfit.